dining with Thais

I had a taste of legitimate Thai culture tonight.

I tutored after school until 5:00. My Thai counterpart, Nummon, was still in the office.

When the student left, she asked what I usually do for dinner. She told me about a delicious place near the school and asked if I wanted to go with her.

We got in her car and headed for the gate of the grounds. We passed Ekapol and Kate, who teach computers and art. Nummon told them to hop in.

On the way, Nummon quizzed me over what I liked and didn't like to eat. We got to a little hole-in-the-wall restaurant and sat down. She took a slip of paper and a pencil from a box at the end of the table and started scribbling our order. She handed it to the lady who owned the place and that was that.

They talked in Thai most of the time, with Nummon pausing to explain in English or ask me a question. A man and a woman walked in. Kate had been gossiping about him the moment before, and Nummon taught me a Thai term that translates to "die hard."

From what I understood (which wasn't much), dying hard is a term you use when you're talking about someone and they walk in just as you're saying their name. She explained that when you're talking about them, it's kind of in the abstract, like they're frozen in time and space -- or like a dead person, she said. (Yeah, it doesn't make much sense to me, either. Especially as I try to articulate it here.) So when the person walks in, they go from being dead to alive.

"And it means they will live a very long life."
"So... living a long life is a bad thing?"

The Thai teachers looked at each other.

"Well, it could be a good thing..."
long pause
"...that's a very good question."

I didn't understand at all, really, so I suppose it's inaccurate to say I learned a new Thai concept.

I did witness a cultural thing I'd read about. Nummon went and paid for the meal. I asked her how much I owed. Ekapol and Kate didn't seem at all concerned about the bill. Nummon said it was no problem, that she was covering it.

"Really, are you sure?" I asked.
"Yes, anytime."

We all stood up, and Ekapol said to me, matter-of-factly, "It's OK - She's the elder here."

The oldest or wealthiest person always pays the bill when people go out. According to one website, you also foot the bill if you go out with a group for your birthday.